The Legacy of Black Dandyism and How It Continues to Shape Fashion

Black dandyism is one of the most powerful style traditions in modern cultural history. It is more than fashion. It is rebellion and assertion built through artistry. It is about crafting presence where presence was once denied. Throughout history, Black dandyism has used elegance as a form of resistance, turning suiting into a language of protest.

Today, this legacy is not only still alive, it is more relevant than ever. It shows up in tailoring, in the work of stylists and musicians, in streetwear, and in accessories. Handbags in particular have become part of the story, not just as luxury items but as cultural tools. The 2025 Met Gala’s theme, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," has brought this movement to center stage. But it has always deserved to be there.

The History

The concept of the dandy originated in eighteenth century Europe, where it described men, typically white and upper class, who used fashion to express individuality and social standing. But for Black communities across the African diaspora, dressing well carried different stakes. It was never just about aesthetics In colonial and postcolonial societies, clothing became a means of claiming visibility and autonomy in spaces built to deny both. From London to Port au Prince to New Orleans, free Black men adopted European tailoring to craft their narratives of presence. As Monica L. Miller writes, “Black dandies made themselves visible in spaces where they were meant to disappear” (Miller 14).

This tradition continues to take root in the United States through cultural leaders who understood the symbolic power of presentation. During the Civil Rights Movement, clothing became part of the political strategy. Civil rights leader Dorothy Height explained, “We had to look impeccable because the message we were sending was that we were demanding respect” (Carlos). Every element of dress challenged racist assumptions. And while it is painful that Black Americans were expected to meet the highest standards just to be acknowledged, that commitment to presentation became a deeply rooted and beautiful part of the culture.

By the 1970s, a related but distinct form of Black dandyism emerged in Central Africa. In the Republic of the Congo and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, La Sape, short for Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes, developed in cities like Brazzaville and Kinshasa. Sapeurs embraced sharp tailoring, vibrant color, and performance through dress. Their suits were not about wealth. They were about visibility, aspiration, and joy in the face of postcolonial hardship. Photographer Héctor Mediavilla, who has documented the movement extensively, writes, “They choose beauty as a way of existing. Their suits are a message to society that says ‘I exist, I matter, and I define myself’” (Mediavilla). La Sape was not a copy of European style. It was its own philosophy of transformative celebration.

Dapper Dan and the Redefinition of Luxury

In the 1980s and 1990s, Harlem designer Dapper Dan remixed the fashion world from the inside out. When major fashion houses refused to sell to Black consumers, he created custom pieces using luxury logos, reshaping them into something new. His work was worn by rappers, boxers, and cultural icons who had been left out of the fashion conversation.

“They would not sell these clothes to us, so I brought the clothes to us. I Africanized it. I Harlemized it,” he said in an interview with The New Yorker (Remnick). His boutique on 125th Street was more than a business. It was a declaration that Black culture not only belonged in the luxury space, it helped shape it. Today, Dapper Dan works in partnership with Gucci, the same brand that once ignored him. His story is now recognized as essential to the history of modern fashion and his presence at three separate Met Galas, including this year’s, is well deserved and overdue recognition for his contributions.

A$AP Rocky and the Evolution of Modern Dandyism

Black dandyism today is not only alive, it is more expansive and multidimensional than ever. It is not confined by gender or silhouette. It exists in the work of stylists, photographers, and artists like A$AP Rocky. In a 2021 interview with GQ, he said, “I care about fashion because I care about how people see themselves. Clothes are part of that.” (GQ). His style often pairs heritage with experimentation. He carries himself with the same sense of attention that has defined dandyism for generations. A$AP Rocky’s 2025 Met Gala look was a bold, personal take on Black dandyism. Wearing a custom double-breasted wool parka inspired by the Marmot jackets of his Harlem upbringing, Rocky told Vogue, “Marmots are a Harlem tradition. In the winter, everyone has a Marmot on. That was our teenage jacket.” (Vogue). His ensemble honored his legacy while redefining what luxury can look like for a new generation. He continues to choose intentional pieces that push the bounds in a way that nods beautifully to Black dandyism.

Handbags as Cultural Signifiers

Accessories have always played a role in personal style, but in the context of Black dandyism, handbags have become especially meaningful. They are no longer just functional items or gendered accessories. They have become extensions of identity and expressions of intent. A Louis Vuitton Soft Trunk worn crossbody with a long coat carries echoes of historical travel and classic tailoring. A heritage bag with layered gold jewelry and a pressed collar becomes part of a larger narrative about ownership and visibility. Telfar’s Shopping Bag is perhaps the clearest symbol of what this legacy looks like today. Designed by Liberian American artist Telfar Clemens, the bag is accessible and proudly centered in Black identity. The brand states, “It is not for you, it is for everyone” (Telfar). This is not just a product. It is a rejection of fashion gatekeeping.

The 2025 Met Gala

The theme of the 2025 Met Gala, "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style," will mark the first time the event centers a Black style movement as the main subject. This was more than a moment of representation, it was placing a historically under-acknowledged tradition at the center of the global fashion conversation. For decades, the Met Gala has explored topics like religious symbolism, European royalty, and American opulence. Now, it finally explored and celebrated a style that has redefined fashion from the margins. In its aftermath, it will also ask everyone in fashion to look more closely at where their ideas come from, and who has been shaping the culture all along.

Why this Legacy Deserves Space

To observe Black dandyism with respect is to understand that fashion is not always surface. It can hold centuries of memory, resistance, strategy, and pride. A bag is not just a bag. A coat is not just a coat. A look can be a message, and in many cases, it already is.

For those of us working in fashion who are not part of this history, the responsibility is to recognize that influence with clarity. To give credit where it is due. Black dandyism continues to shape the future of style because it has always been about more than what you wear. It is about how you choose to show up, and what you refuse to leave unsaid.